Along The Danube

Melk Abbey

Benedictine monks have called this glorious perch overlooking the Danube home for one-thousand years.  A Baroque masterpiece, Melk Abbey or Stift Melk  as you see it today was built between 1701 and 1736 and is a must do for those who love abbeys and romantic settings.  An extensive  restoration project completed in 1996, commemorated the 1000 year anniversary of the abbey.  Interesting fact… the restoration was financed in part, with the proceeds the abbey received from the sale of it’s Gutenberg Bible to Harvard University.  Gleaming high above the river, it’s yellow hue seems to attract the sunlight, giving the whole complex a peaceful heaven-like presence.  Inside the Abbey and included on the tour is the Imperial Staircase, the church, the abbey museum, the Marble Hall and the abbey’s extensive library.  The stunning main hall of the library boasts some 16,000 volumes including medieval manuscripts and a ceiling fresco by Austrian painter Paul Troger, notable for the fluidity of his paintings.  A highlight of the tour is the vantage point from the semi-circular terrace with breathtaking views overlooking the Wachau Valley.  The abbey restaurant is a great stop for a cappuccino and dessert or lunch on the patio (open April-December). Plan about 2-2.5 hours for your visit.

website:  http://www.stiftmelk.at/en/

November – March 11am and 2pm twice daily 1 hour guided tours in English and German

April – October 9am – 4:30pm daily self guided or guided  (last admission 4pm)

admission:  self-guided tour adult €11, guided adult €13, student €6/€8, family ticket €22/€26

address:  Abt-Berthold-Dietmayr-Str. 1   A 3390 Melk

Aggstein Castle

Situated 1000 feet above the right bank of the Danube River, 12th century Aggstein Castle Fortress Ruins is frozen in time.  Complete with a dungeon, towers and a tavern, the ruined castle can be accessed by car, boat or on foot.  A visit here is sharply contrasted by it’s graceful neighbor Melk Abbey upstream.  Aggstein is rugged and romantic with a colorful past.  Once home to a robber baron, today the castle offers a genuine experience for fans of the Middle Ages and visitors who enjoy rambling around stone ruins and climbing even higher to soak up the views of the Wachau Valley below.  Rest your feet and catch your breath over a beer at the restaurant.

website: in german http://www.ruineaggstein.at/index.php/home.html

April – May & September – October 9am-6pm daily

June – August 9am-7pm daily

November open on weekends only (Fri-Sun) for Arts & Crafts – Christmas Market… Fridays 3-9pm & Sat/Sun 10am-7pm

December – February closed

admission:  children under 6 free, children age 6-16 €4.60, adults €6.70, family ticket €16.50  Audio guides €1.50 each, 1 hour guided tour €4.50 per person

address:  3642 Aggsbach Village

Naturepark Jauerling

Hike between the vines and along vineyard terraces, wander a traditional Wauchau village, discover regional apricots.  Jauerling Naturepark is nestled on the slopes between Aggsbach Markt and the quaint village of Spitz on the left bank of the Danube.  Some of the Wachau’s finest wines are grown here.  Throughout the year Jauerling hosts many interesting events, among them are the lantern walks during the winter solstice around Christmas and again in the springtime.  In the summer enjoy the outdoor balcony and a beer with amazing views over the valley.  The village of Mühldorf is a perfect hiking destination from the wine village of Spitz, the approximately 6 mile trek takes you through the Spitzer Graben, a picturesque side valley of The Wachau.  Local buses are available 7 days a week to take you back to your starting destination.

website:  in german  http://www.naturpark-jauerling.at

hiking info: https://www.donau.com/en/wachau-nibelungengau-kremstal/outings-activities/exercise/karten-touren-finden/details/welterbesteig-wachau-04-spitz-muehldorf-spitzer-graben/bcfb949371bf28c9ecea5cd1e7a16929/

open all year

address:  3643 Maria Laach 46

Dürnstein Abbey

Formerly an Augustinian Monastery, and founded in 1410 Dürnstein Abbey is one of The Wachau Valley’s most recognizable riverside landmarks.  It’s celestial blue tower catches your eye set against the riverbanks of the Danube, the Baroque Abbey you see today was built in 1710.  Take a peek inside for a fee to see a collection of paintings and sculptures and the bones of St. James.  Many visitors go for the Abbey but stay for the postcard perfect town of Dürnstein, founded in 1476.  Stroll the cobbled lanes and pop into a weinstübe for a taste of the local wine, particularly good are the Rieslings.  If you like apricots, then your in the right town, apricots have been an important part of the Wachau economy since the 1800’s, and this is the official home of the Wachau Apricot.  Be sure to sample some apricot dumplings, strudel or brandy.  Both the abbey and the town of Dürnstein literally “dry rock”, gets it’s name from the Burgruine or ruined castle perched high above the dampness of the Danube, on a large rock foundation.  Among it’s most notable occupants was the English warrior king Richard The Lionheart, who was held prisoner here briefly in 1192.   It has stood guard over the little town since medieval times.  The steep walk up to the castle is certainly worth the fine views of the meandering Danube and the lush tapestry of vineyards below..and its free.

website: https://www.stift-duernstein.at/

April – October  Monday –  Saturday 9am-6pm, Sundays & holidays 10am-6pm (last admission 5:30)

November – March  open only for guided tours of groups of 20 or more booked in advance

Holy Mass is celebrated every Sunday at 9:30am and is open to the public

admission:  self-guided tour adult €3.50, guided adult €6, student €2.60/€3.50, age 6-14 €1.50/€3  visit the abbey website for info on special organ and wine tasting tours

address:  3601 Dürnstein No.1

Göttweig Abbey

A trip to Göttweig Abbey is fascinating in that it is a living and breathing Abbey.  The approximately 45 monks here today are an integral part of the  surrounding community, just as they were hundreds of years ago.  The abbey cultivates its own wines and grows apricots which are turned into Göttweig apricot schnapps.  The baroque Benedictine abbey you see today was constructed at the beginning of the 18th century and was modeled after Spain’s Escorial.  The first thing any visitor will notice is it’s exquisite fortress-like location and unique perspective over The Wachau Valley.  A tour inside is an up close look at abbey life and you get the chance to sample the wines made there. The abbey restaurant offers spectacular views on it’s terrace and wonderful local cuisine.  May through October the abbey has a program offering visitors a chance to stay overnight at bed and breakfast prices.

website:  in german  https://www.stiftgoettweig.at

March – May & October  open daily 10am-6pm (last admission 5pm) – self guided

June – September  open daily 9am -6pm (last admission 5pm) – self guided

guided tours:  available Mon-Sat. 11am, 2pm, 3pm & on Sundays 11am, noon, 2pm, 3pm

November – February  closed      

address:  Götttweig, A-3511 Klein Wien

Wachau Valley Wines

The Wachau Valley lies along the Danube River Valley between the towns of Melk and Krems.  Wine cultivation has been at the heart of this fertile region since the Romans planted the first vines along it’s steep slopes in the 5th century.  Some of the best Rieslings in the world are produced here, while Grüner Veltiner is the most common varietal.  The Danube itself plays an important role in the viticulture of the region; having a symbiotic relationship with the grapes in that it provides a type of natural climate control for the vineyards, especially in the hot, dry months leading up to the autumn harvest.  A trip to The Wachau would not be complete without sampling some of it’s easy going wines, and is a must do!.  Your travel timeline will determine where your wine tasting planning will take you.  Many intimate family run wineries offer tastings and tours by appointment, some even have heuriger or buschenschank  a rustic wine tavern, where you can savor some local and seasonal dishes.  Look for the “buschen“, bundle of twigs or twig wreath at the doorway that signals they are open.  My recommended wineries and details are listed below in the next section.  Most are on the left bank of the river and centered around the towns of Spitz, Weißenkirchen and Dürnstein, with the exception of my favorite, in Mautern which is on the right bank.  It will be helpful to refer to the map in the introduction of this region.  Walking or biking from winery to winery is possible.  A day can easily be spent here enjoying the historic beauty and local flavors and your time maximized if planned out properly.  If you feel you only have time for a single wine tasting experience or don’t have time to plan ahead, one of the two main wine co-ops in the valley can make for an easier stop.  These larger more commercial co-ops, have over 900 wine growers as members and are the largest exporters of Wachau wines.  They offer most of the regions varietals to taste, by guided tour (times in English are below). A wide variety of their wines are sold here at great prices.  This isn’t the small winery experience but allows you to taste what the Wachau is all about.

Wine Coop info:

Winzer Krems

website: https://www.sandgrube13.at/en/

May – October  Monday-Saturday 8am-5pm, Sunday 10am-4pm

November – April  Monday-Saturday 8am-5pm, closed Sunday

wine experience tours in English 

• July – October: English tours on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday at 11:15 a.m.    tours for groups of 20+ by appointment

no appointment needed for wine sales

address & contact info:  Sandgrube 13, A-3500 Krems, phone: +43 2732 85511 33, email: sandgrube13weinsinn@winzerkrems.at

Domäne Wachau

website: http://www.domaene-wachau.at/en/start/

April – October  Monday-Saturday 10am-5pm

November – March  Monday-Friday 10am-5pm

no appointment needed for tastings

address:  3601, Dürnstein 107